AT AKOKO, an upscale restaurant in central London, Nigerian staples such as moi-moi, stodgy bean pudding, and mosa, a savoury doughnut made from overripe plantain, become fine dining. Staff shuttle steaming bowls of jollof rice across the restaurant to clients paying 120 pounds for a tasting menu, plus another 95 pounds for a wine pairing. A shorter 55 pounds lunch menu exists for the time-pressed, the tightwads and those husbanding expense accounts. This year Akoko won its first Michelin star. It was joined by Chishuru, another Nigerian joint. Its owner, Adejoke Bakare, has gone from being a have-a-go chief working out of a temporary spot in Brixton Market in south London to a Michelin-star-winning West London mainstay in barely four years.